Spring swell is upon us!

Yo….

Well, all western coastlines have been alight with groomed groundswell, offshore winds and back to back sunshine this past week.

It makes you appreciate the perfection that lies on our doorstep when all the elements combine. We often feel inadequate as a surfing nation to our neighbours who suck every drop of Atlantic power and are favoured by blocking high pressures. Through a winter plagued by stong on-shores, we have finally been blessed by a unsual early spring, offering optimal surfing conditions and record-breaking temperatures.

The following shots were taken at Saunton Sands, with a few from Croyde Bay thrown in for good measure. Blinding glare and awkward tides, made for tricky shooting conditions.

Be proud to be a UK surfer!

Philip Hill crossing it up.

Greg Norman sunset re-entry.

Greg Norman on his way to the nose.

Croyde Unknown

Gallery of both sessions taken at Saunton Sands and Croyde Bay – March 26th-27th 6 -8pm

Check Greg Norman out @ http://gregnormansurfer.blogspot.co.uk/

For use, prints, high res please contact.. https://surflit.wordpress.com/ http://www.facebook.com/pages/Surflit/100867850009380

North Devon – Croyde, Saunton and Castrol Oil?

Yesterday’s new swell picked up over night and was looking punchy at dawn. As the sun rose so did the winds. They were predominantly offshore but slightly from the South, which put an uneasy wonk on the water’s surface. The howling offshore made it pretty much impossible to get in to anything, but still, a good days surf.

The winter sun was out in force, making it blinding to even look at the water’s surface. (Thank god for his invention of polarized sunnies 🙂 Is amazing to see how many people were in the water, even for January in the UK. As sea temps drop you would think the lineup would have thinned out slightly. Don’t get me wrong, it’s nothing compared to summer, but still, a good turn out for a chilly January day. Surfing has boomed and is booming, and will continue to do so.

Low-tide, Croyde A-Frame coupled with 1000 Knot winds.

As I was power walking down the beach (trying to stretch the ankle out) I came across a dirty circular character littering the Devonshire coastline. An oil drum! Of all things it’s hardly what you want rolling past you in the surf. The owner had also wrote his name on it – Castrol.  It makes you wonder where it came from, was it at one time full of oil? ( I hope not) Oil companies are irresponsible, as are the majority of people with money to burn. They participate in a bit of ‘window dressing’ – making their company seem like it’s concerned about the environment, and then go and litter the globes most precious resource; the sea. I don’t care whether it contained oil or not, it’s the simple fact of you don’t want to be seeing a Castrol oil drum on a beach. Shame on Castrol.

Anyway this is how a UK beach should appear; clean and basked in morning sunshine.

Surf News – ASP claims another


http://www.aspworldtour.com/

“I feel best when I’m free-surfing” – Bobby Martinez

‘The dream tour’. On paper it seems exactly that. Travelling the globe competing in a sport you love, surfing the world’s best beachies, point break’s and heaving reefs. You wake up in the morning, hop down to the beach and surf a few rounds against your mates; if you loose you get paid anyway, if you win you get paid big bucks. All in all, its hardly a 9 to 5 at the office. So why does it seem to push so many away, leaving them with a bitter taste in their mouth and a feeling of recent against competitive surfing.

Goofy, lip-cracker Bobby Martinez is the next great surfer that has thrown down his competitive jersey in anger of the ASP. Bobby regularly vents his frustration on Twitter, and we all saw it at Bells when he lost to Taj and then basically told the judges they were idiots. In a in depth interview with his board producer, Channel Island’s, Bobby explains what it is about the tour that he dislikes and explains what his plans are for the future. Check it out here.

So why does it seem so many want to steer clear of the competitive arena. We constantly here people going ‘it’s a hard life on tour’. Really? I’m sure 99% of us would drop everything for a glimpse in to their world’s.

I beleive there is two different type’s of surfers. One one hand you have Kelly, Jordy, Kolohe, Mick, Adriano. On the other you have the likes of Machado, Rastovich, and Wade Goodall. Some are born to compete, regardless of their bank balances they want to win and stay with the world tour for as long as their bones will take it. Then there is those who are competent of making it on the world tour, yet opt to for a life of pursuing their own desires.

I believe this divide is due to the nature of surfing. Surfing being such a soulful experience that enriches your own life, is sometimes best kept just to yourself. It seems that many resent the whole competitive life of surfing, alongside the exploding corporate industry as it takes away the basic fundamentals of what surfing is.

Taj, A.I, Sunny and now Bobby Martinez have all grown frustrated by the ASP. Andy took time out and dropped off tour simply because he did’nt like it anymore. It seemsclearing the fog of competitive surfing from your mind allows the creative juices to begin flowing again. Bobby has finally recieve a much deserved sponsor from FTW. FTW is owned by Icer Brands that owns the likes of Rocawear and Sean John so its sure to give him the backing he needs. Let’s not forget Bobby, lets follow that legendary backhand snap and that explosive attitude wherever he may go. Congradualtions Bobby. Freedom is with you.

Surf Stories – Perfect waves and broken bones

Surfing is an adventure. Adventures generally entail up’s and down’s that all contribute in making it a memorable occasion. As surfers, we travel and explore, throwing outselves in to nature’s vast unknown. We all have stories; travelling hundreds of miles for 1ft mush, getting lost and finding empty perfection, snapping your new stick on your first wave, the list is endless. I believe its important for us to share these experiences. We sit and watch the world tour via our rapid internet connections, dreaming of the life on the ‘dream tour’. Yet this comes to us as an almost scripted format, we know where there going, we know who’s surfing, we know who’s likely to win, we know that we are about to witness the best surfing in the world. That’s why, as free-surfers we owe it to each other to share our own experiences. Sure we might not all be busting big airs and doing our dream job, but we all embrace surfing in to our life’s, allowing it to offer us stories that are dying to be told. Let’s do just that, lets show how the average surfer is worthy of an exciting tale. Here’s mine.

The charts were looking good. The previous East Coast swell was plagued by variable winds, making a potentially brilliant swell nothing more than frustrating, stormy mush. Anyway, summer swells in North East England, whats up with that? I’m not complaining but these are generally rarer than a bloody steak. Wednesday, August 10th was looking to show optimum conditions with a dying swell that would begin to organise itself and be greeted with stiff offshore’s.

I began exploring the East coast potential during University, when my studies took me closer to this rugged, ‘Jurassic’ coastline. Now back at my parents house for the summer, my feet were itchy and I was eager to get back ‘oop North’ and hopefully score some serious water time.

Setting off at the crack of dawn, the tiny little car was juiced up and the gear and boards in tow. As any travelling surfer knows, after a long car journey I was sprinting to the cliff top’s all excited and eager to asses the situation. I didn’t want 8 foot, gruelling drainers, I wanted lovely medium-sized waves offering long rides, whackable sections and countless rides. For the first time in a while mother-nature had listened to my thought’s – 3-5 ft, offshore, enough said.

East Coast summer swell ? – Photo by Vandal-Gab

As I sprinted back to the car, I could hardly contain my excitement. Non surfers will never understand this feeling, you become anxious yet content, irate yet calm, annoyed that you’re not in there NOW yet ecstatic that your going to be in there soon. Your heart beats that little bit faster and your thoughts and imagination run wild. Problems become irrelevant and you realize how nothing else matters.

Cayton Bay features a super steep path leading down to a sand/rock beach. After a good session, the path defiantly finished you off with surfer’s dreaming about lift’s and board caddy’s. Anyway I dived in and managed to make it out to a good position after taking a few on the head.

There were only 4 other wave riders in this particular spot, so I sat on the edge and waited my turn. The majority of waves were reeling off left, with the odd swinger coming in offering fast little rights. Being a natural footer, I bagged a nice sized right which offered a quick, close out barrel. I paddled back out and sat right on the peak, watching the guy’s get long rippable lefts which were staying open thanks to the wind. A good 3-4 wave set was approaching on the horizon, the first couple were snagged by the guys sat slightly inside. I paddled for the approaching wave – glassy and head high. As I bottom turned, I was greeted with a long, walling shoulder which allowed me to get 4-5 lovely, cruising turn’s on. As the wave hit the rip, if began to fade, so I opted to pull out the back. As I dropped down the back of the wave, my left foot left the board and my body began to fall in to the water. For some reason,my right foot stayed put. Whether it was due to the fresh wax job or the added traction from the booties, it did not move. That was until the rest of my body was in the water and pushed my right ankle up and off the board. The pain wasnt instant and I considered paddling back out. As I was about to do so it became more severe and I decided it was probably best to paddle back in. Thankfully my girlfriend was on the cliff top, so I frantically waved her down to assist. After a couple of wave back’s she understood that there was a problem. On reaching the beach my ankle felt like jelly and I could not connect it to the ground.

The Left’s on the day – Photo by Vandal-Gab

My next problem, was the gruelling cliff path that seems to run at about a 45 degree angle, for a good 5-10 minute of walking. This was going to be much longer in my case. Using my girlfriend as a crutch, I began hopping towards the car park. As fatigue set in, pain increased and the soothing cold water left my boots, I could manage less and less hops between resting intervals. After a good half hour, I reached the vehicle. The next dilemma, was the removal of the boot’s and wetsuit. A soaking wet, cold suit is difficult to remove at the best of times, let alone when the final exit point is the area that you can’t touch. After some assistance the sickening ordeal was over, and the tennis ball sized lump was freed from support. It instantly ballooned and grew and grew in size and abnormal shaping. Next stop, Hospital.

After a horrendous taxi ride, a few X-Rays and a long wait, I was informed that I had fractured my right Fibula. The break was peculiar, (most likely due to a previous ankle injury) and required surgery in the coming days. It was getting late and unable to drive, I had to get my car and equipment over one hundred and fifty miles south somehow. After a pleading call to my dad, he agreed to jump on a train and meet us at the hospital. Next followed a 3 hour car journey in a cramped, little car with  my ankle feeling every bump and hole in the road. I couldn’t help but think about the session that could have been. That second wave felt perfect, the crowds were thin and the North Sea had most defiantly turned on.

A week after the accident, my ankle is now feeling worse than ever. I will be crutch and cast bound for the next 6 weeks, with physiotherapy after this period for tendon damage. The pain of the injury, does not come close to my state of ‘cold turkey’ that seems to have already set in. It is likely to be over 3 months before I will be entering the water confidently.

As a surfer, it’s easy to start ‘clucking’ a little when you are surf deprived. The feeling of being land-locked for the foreseeable future is a depressing feeling. It over comes the actual pain of injury. On the bright side I am happy to see that there is no approaching swells. Although I can’t help to think about the up coming Hurricane season, when England see’s it’s coastline alight with long-awaited Atlantic swells.

Someone else scoring during the same session.

Image from Grumpy Old Surfer. Check out his site for lots of pics from the other day and other great days from around the UK.

 

Surf News – Kolohe Andino is on fire!!!!


Kolohe Andino Official
Transworld Surf

This kid is non-stop at the minute. He is absolutley smashing everything. Perfect 10’s, 1st place finishes, huge airs and now, coverboy of Transworld Surf Magazine.

One of the worlds biggest surf mags, Kolohe has deservadly bagged the top spot with an awesome shot of him blowing the fins and throwing some spray.

Check out his 10 at the end of this clip at the Mr Price pro

And another 10 here at Lower Trestles. Absolutley ripping!!

Kolohe Andino wins USA Championships from Nike 6.0 on Vimeo.

Surf News – Nike 6.0 nightsurf??

Whaaaaaaaaaaattttttttttttttttttttttttttttt??

Surfing at the best of times can prove challenging for most, but at night?

Nike 6.0 have stepped it up in approaching competition surfing with adding a huge twist. ‘Lets make it at night time!!!’

Held at England’s surf hub; Fistral beach, Newquay, this is going to be a very special event. The hottest European surfers will be there competing in a range of divisions for a share of £15,000 prize pot.

Nike 6.0 arealso going to be hosting’cash for tricks’ . A 5 star event which basically does exactly as it says; boost a big air, nail a huge reverse or rail a huge floater and your in with a chance of bagging some money for your efforts.

If your in the area on July 8th – 9th take a look. Theres going to be plenty going on and a day/night out for all.

 

Surf News -Vote Laura Enever for Cosmopolitan fun, fearless, Female

Nike 6.0 star Laura Enever in blowing up in the fashion world.

This rising surfing star is fresh on the world tour, and boy do we love her.

You can vote for Laura as Cosmopolitan’s FUN, FEARLESS, FEMALE, FINALIST at http://www.cosmopolitan.com.au/fun-fearless-females/2011/laura_enever_surfer.htm

Get voting, Enever deserves it more than anyone, she has been absolutley charging of late.

Can handle the heavy stuff. Pretty deep?

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